Somewhere along the back of Strete Gate beach used to be the lost village of Strete Undercliffe, a small fishing village much like Hallsands and Torcross, constructed on the shingle for its easy access to the sea. Near the end of Strete Gate Beach is Pilchard Cove, which I like to think was named by someone living in the village, maybe it was good for pilchard fishing?

Pilchard Cove - Alice Henderson
Pilchard Cove - Alice Henderson (Pilchard Cove - Alice Henderson)

Anyone dedicated enough to walk right to the end of Strete Gate Beach, is rewarded with the discovery of a delightful waterfall and cave. Tucked away within a crack in the cliff, water tumbled down into a freshwater pool on the beach. The gently rippling water reflected light onto the surrounding walls, leading me to notice patterns, layers of material bending and curving within those rocks. There looked to be a mix of slate and schist, 2 metamorphic substrates formed through intense heat and pressure, causing the twisting and buckling I could see in front of me.

Nearby a cave caught my attention as I could see light glimmering within, I couldn’t help by go and investigate. I should add here that I entered at my own risk. It didn’t go far but turned a dog leg and went out towards the sea. I imagined the sea rushing in at high tide, gushing and gurgling as it did so. I exited promptly and made my way to the end of the beach.

Rocks created under heat and pressure - Alice Henderson
Rocks created under heat and pressure - Alice Henderson (Rocks created under heat and pressure - Alice Henderson )

Incidentally there is much more shingle here than is shown on OS maps and scurrying around rocks that marked the end of the 3mile long beach, at low tide was much easier than I expected. I shouldn’t be surprized, as over the years I have worked at Slapton, I have seen a marked shift in shingle from south to north. Once round the end, I was into a new bay; one with no name. I wandered along the pristine beach leaving only my trail of foot prints. I stood fascinated as 2 greater black backed gulls had a mid-air disagreement and along the shore some herring gulls looked to be having fun splashing around in the sea.

Strete Gate Waterfall - Alice Henderson
Strete Gate Waterfall - Alice Henderson (Strete Gate Waterfall - Alice Henderson )

My adventure came to its most northly point, when I saw a row of 8 cormorants sitting on a cliff edge between Forest Cove and the nameless beach that I was on. They looked so serene I did not want to disturb them. So I turned around and made my way back. Once back on Strete Gate beach, it was time for a swim in the crystal clear sea. Having swum every day for 2 weeks I had acclimatised to the cold, so with the water a balmy 11.6 degrees I felt right at home floating around in it. A few minutes is enough at this time of year, so I was soon out of the water and back into dry clothes.

Stomping back along the water’s edge in an attempt to get warm, I observed the tiny pebbles under my feet as I went; glistening brightly as if varnished. As foamy wavelets swashed in and swooshed out, I dodged up and down the shore; attempting to walk as close to the edge as I could, whilst trying to keep my boots dry.

Having observed several patches of gloom sweep across to the south of me on my outward journey, I was not so lucky on my return. I watched as the view in front of me was swallowed up and into the gloom I trudged. It wasn’t long though before rays of light started bursting through the mist and the sky became a picture; The sun beaming through the dark menacing clouds. What a fabulous adventure I have had, I thought to myself.

I hope to share more from my South Hams beach visiting challenge throughout the year.